Chinese Praying Mantis (Tenodera sinensis).
Chinese Praying Mantis (Tenodera sinensis). They are one of the best predator insects, eating about any bug except the valuable Lady Bugs.
Helpful Care Instructions:
The Chinese mantis is a fantastic species for the beginner, proving one of the easiest to keep in captivity. Not only is it large, but very tame, and will tolerate handling. Diet is no problem, and shedding problems will rarely occur. Overall, the Tenodera is a fantastic species, much recommended! Being a tame species, it is great for the beginner, and its ootheca (eggcase) hatches a vast amount of nymphs!
These mantis are recommended for garden pest control, classroom projects or personal pets.
Chinese Mantis Care
Accommodation:
This species of mantis will survive in fair conditions. It's best to keep it around 20-26 C (68-78.8 F), or room temperature. Warmer temperature speeds up the metabolism of the mantis and will shorten its life span and in contrast, cooler temperature slows its metabolism and lengthens the life span, but both extremes could kill it. Humidity should be around 60-65%. This could be achieved by spraying or watering the substrate (soil/ground in their enclosure) 3 times a week. The main purpose of humidity is to help the mantis molt. Too much humidity will cripple the mantis during molts, and too little will hinder it from emerging from the old skin. Just make sure it doesn't get too dry or too damp.
Caging:
This species is quite large. The suggested height is about 9 inches, and width about 6 inches. They require sticks and leaves for perching, hanging, molting, and catching insects. They are very active and may need some space to roam around or to pursue their prey so adjust caging according to their activity, and larger is better than smaller.
Feeding:
This species eats very well. They are not picky. Crickets, cockroaches (nymphs),caterpillars, mealworms, moths and non-poisonous butterflies. House flies are also yummy. They will begin to eat these other insects as they grow into maturity. Most generally, you can feed them anything that will fit in their claws. It's recommended that the size of the feeder insect does not exceed 1/3 the mantis length. Even though they are voracious and will attack anything, do not offer them poisonous insects or wasps or bees as these could seriously harm the mantis.
You can either drop the food inside the tank and if the mantis is hungry, it will go after the prey or you can feed them by hand: Use a pair of tweezers to hold the cricket and wave it in front of the mantis. If it's hungry, it will turn its head to stare directly at the insect and will snatch it from the tweezers or you may need to pierce the insect and put it to the mantis mouth and if it likes the taste, it'll grab on to it and begin to feed. Do not overfeed them, overfeeding will shorten their life span. Feed them as much as it will eat in one day and do not feed it for another 2 days. As for watering, mantids get their water from their prey, but lightly mist the enclosure every couple of days, and occasionally, a mantis will drink off of droplets from a branch or a side of the tank. This also helps keep humidity levels safe.
Molting:
A mantis will stop eating a day or 2 (sometimes more) prior to its molt. Do not be alarmed if one day your mantis is chowing down on a cricket and the next it refuses its food,; it's simply getting ready to shed its skin. Mantids molt every 2-3 weeks as babies and the time in between each molt increases as they get older so their last molt into adulthood can sometimes take as long as 3-4 weeks. It takes about 7 molts for females and about 6 for males. That's why males tend to mature earlier than females and they also die faster. During molts, it is vital that you do not disturb them. The mantis will hang upside down from a branch or the screen lid and will sometimes shake or spasm violently. Then after a while, it worms out of its old skin and will hang out to dry. Once it's dried, it will resume eating and being its normal self after a couple of days. To ensure their safety, mist them every day while young nymphs to prevent any blockade during molting.
So, now you know a little bit more about these amazing critters... Good luck with your own pet!
Thank you.
Keeping A Ramshorn Snail As A Pet.
As a pet, a Ramshorn Snail can be an interesting addition to a community tank. Ramshorn Snails can be a good match for species tanks as well, like shrimp or snail tanks. A Ramshorn Snail can do a good job keeping a tank clean by eating uneaten food, dead or decaying plant matter, debris, detritus, and soft algae buildup on hard surfaces. A Ramshorn Snail can be seen for hours on end canvasing the tank for edible matter. Ramshorn Snails have the ability to move and bend their rubber-like bodies around very thin plant leaves, dangle from stems and stretch as they move from one hard surface to another. With a young Ramshorn Snail, the inside of their bodies can be seen as they eat and digest food, because their shells are thin and translucent.
Ramshorn Snails may be identified and labeled loosely in pet stores. Ramshorn Snails can go by a couple different names and refer to a couple different varieties. They can be sold as a common Ramshorn Snail, Red Ramshorn Snails, or Ramshorns Snails. Other varieties can include Blue Ramshorn Snail and Pink Ramshorn Snails. Both Blue Ramshorn Snail and Pink Ramshorn Snails are more rare and accordingly, more expensive.
Ramshorn Snail Size & Age
When one considers Ramshorn Snail size, the focus is usually on shell size as opposed to body or foot size. At the store, a young Ramshorn Snail size will likely be around a quarter inch in length. Ramshorn Snail size will increase as the snail ages. All things equal, the larger the shell, the older the snail. Along these lines, as the snail ages its shell gets thicker and loses its transparency. A Ramshorn Snail can grow to be slightly larger than a dime under the right conditions, and with a little luck they can grow larger still.
Ramshorn Snail size also refers to the width of the shell. Shells gets wider as the whorl grows longer. The narrowest part of the shell whorl is closest to the apex, and the widest part of the shell whorl is closest to the aperture.
Ramshorn Snail Care Is Pretty Easy
In general, Ramshorn Snail care can be thought of in terms of tank size, habitat, water parameters, diet, growth rate, lifespan and reproduction. Ramshorn Snail care is relatively easy, making it a good snail for beginners.
Tank Size & Water Parameters
Tank Size: A Ramshorn Snail can do well in nearly any size tank, from small tanks like 5 or 10 gallon setups to much larger ones, provided the rules regarding fish count are followed. Although a Ramshorn Snail is not the escape artist like some other snails are, its best to keep the tank covered to the extent possible.
Habitat: A Ramshorn Snail can adapt to a variety of habitats, but they seem to really enjoy tanks with a variety of live plants. Live aquarium plants shed dead or dying plant matter into the water serving as food for the snails. Tanks with live plants are never “too clean”, making Ramshorn Snails a good custodian. A Ramshorn Snail also enjoys a tank with lots of rocks, caves other interesting spots to explore.
Water Conditions
Water Parameters: Ramshorn Snail care is easy is because they are very adaptable and can do well in a range of water conditions. Ramshorn Snails can do well in established tanks with clear, moderately moving water, as well as in tanks more on the murky side. Either way, the tank water should be well aerated and oxygenated, with stable water parameters. Ramshorn Snails do best in tanks where sudden shifts in conditions are avoided.
A Ramshorn Snail seems to enjoy being in water within the community tank range:
Aquarium pH: 7.0 – 7.5,
Hardness: On the hard side, for their shells
Water Temperature: 70 – 78 Degrees Fahrenheit
Lighting: Normal community tank lighting
When keeping Ramshorn Snails, it’s important to test tank water regularly. Make sure Ammonia and Nitrite levels are at 0 ppm, and control Nitrate levels as well as organic matter accumulation with regular partial water changes. As with other shelled tank mates, be very careful when using medications and plant fertilizers as some of the ingredients may be harmful. Most importantly, avoid copper. Even in small amounts, copper can be fatal.
Ramshorn Snail Food, Feeding & Growth Rate
What Do Ramshorn Snails Eat? These snails spend alot of time on the hard surfaces of a tank searching for something to eat. Ramshorn Snail food sources include dead or decaying plant matter, soft algae, uneaten food and fallen tank mates. Ramshorn Snail food should also include a variety of fish flakes, pellets, bottom feeder tablets, algae wafers and calcium-rich supplements. Calcium is important for healthy shell growth. As for feeding, feed in small amounts and no more than the snails can eat in 5 minutes.
Ramshorn Snail food can also include dead fish, snails or shrimp. Even though a Ramshorn Snail will eat dead fish and snails, its best to remove the deceased to avoid ammonia spikes and other water quality issues. A Ramshorn snail can also interested in eating dead aquarium shrimp. Ramshorns seem particularly interested in feeding on molted Bamboo and Amano shrimp shells. Some hobbyists let the snail feed on the shell for a while so it can ingest some of the minerals. When the snail is finished feeding, simply remove the remaining portion of the shell from the tank.
One interesting thing to observe are Ramshorn Snails eating in groups. Ramshorn Snails are very active, moving about the tank during the day and night on the prowl for food. When one Ramshorn finds a source of food, other snails will migrate to the area. The group of snails will devour the food until gone. Often, clumps of snails actively move to position themselves in just the right spot to get the best bite.
Eating Algae
Algae Growth: A favorite Ramshorn Snail food is soft green algae growing on hard surfaces like aquarium glass, filter intakes, gravel, decorations and slow growing plant leaves. A Ramshorn Snail may also be interested in soft brown algae growing just below the substrate line. A hungry Ramshorn Snail can spend hours digging an inch or so below the substrate eating algae buildup off the glass. Ramshorn Snails do not seem interested in eating Green Spot Algae. It is probably too hard for them.
Fresh Vegetables: An often overlooked Ramshorn Snail food source are fresh vegetables. Rinsed green lettuce leaves, spinach leaves and even green zucchini slices are good choices. While small amounts of fresh vegetables can be added directly to a tank, it may be a good idea to quickly blanch the vegetables to soften them before feeding. Figuring out whether the snails are interested in eating vegetables may be trial and error, so experiment with a variety of choices. Interested snails will find the food quickly start eating. As a general rule, if the snails are not interest in eating the vegetables within 24 hours or so, remove the food from the tank. Too much uneaten food in a tank can cause water quality issues.
Feeding & Growth
Growth Rate: A Ramshorn Snail eating a balanced diet of debris, aquarium algae, vegetables and commercial supplements will grow quickly and steadily. This is particularly true with Calcium. If Calcium levels are sufficient, a Ramshorn Snail swill grow thick, healthy, crack-free shells. If food is less plentiful, or if Calcium levels are insufficient, growth rate will be slower. Shells will be thinner with signs of small ridge-like cracks. Therefore, it’s a good idea to feed Ramshorn Snails commercial food fortified with Calcium.
Ramshorns & Live Plants
Regarding Live Plants: Some hobbyists say that Ramshorn Snails will eat live plants. Others say that they rarely have issues. While a Ramshorn Snail may sometimes be interested in eating plants with soft, delicate leaves and stems, alot has to do with the hardiness of the plant and how well the snail is otherwise fed. Keeping hardy plants with durable leaves like Anubias Barteri should not be a problem. And keeping Ramshorn Snails well fed on a diet including fresh leafy vegetables should also help reduce the chances that live plants will be eaten.
Lifespan: Healthy, well feed Ramshorn Snails have a lifespan of about one year. Some snails can live longer than one year with a bit of good fortune. That said, it’s not uncommon for some Ramshorn Snails to die shortly after being added to a tank. Death may be attributable to stress during transportation or the shift in parameters between the water in the display tank and the home tank. But either way, the possibility of quick death exists and is worth a mention.
A dead Ramshorn Snail will most likely be lying motionless on the tank bottom. If the snail is still and motionless for an unusually long period of time they are probably dead. Their bodies will begin to decompose. After a couple of weeks, their shell can show visible signs of thinning out and holes may begin to form. While the general rule is to promptly remove dead inhabitants from a tank as soon as possible, some hobbyists leave the dissolving shells in the water so their minerals can make their way back into the water column.
Bearded Dragon Care.
Bearded Dragon Care.
Bearded dragons are omnivores and can eat a variety of things.
They’re need live insects dusted with calcium and multivitamins and vegetables/greens (non-citrus fruit!). In their 15 years of life, they can grow up to about 18″. When it comes to habitats, a 48in Lx24in Hx24in W vivarium is the minimum size required for one adult dragon. It needs to be well-ventilated, secure and made from a solid material that’s easy to clean. When looking for furnishings, avoid ‘calci-sand’ because it is dangerous to reptiles if eaten. You will need a vivarium that ranges from a hotter (100F) bright end, to a cooler (72F) shaded end. You’ll also need to provide a 10 to 12% fluorescent UV tube at the hot end and keep the humidity low.
-Are Bearded Dragons Friendly? -Yes, Bearded Dragons are very friendly and they’re easy to tame. In fact, Bearded Dragons are known to be very docile. Speaking from personal experience, I would say that a Bearded Dragon will only act aggressive if it feels stressed out or threatened (scared). Overall, Bearded Dragons do well with human interaction. Below, is a short list of things that you may need to buy for your lovely pet.
-An enclosure
-A heat bulb
-A fixture for the heat bulb
-A UVB and UVA bulbs
-A fixture for the bulbs
-Substrate, reptile carpet, pptowels or tile
-Tank decorations
-Live Food
-Greens
-The Bearded Dragon
paypal.me/Kesmyla